360 Controller Rapidfire mod!

[Sexified Loveandhatejw]

Well this is in no way made by me, I will however be doing this.

Rapidfire mod

Tools:
Soldering Iron

Dremel

Torx T8 security Screwdriver


Parts List:
Part - Info - Radioshack #

R1 - 10k Ohm - 271-1335
R2 - 100k Ohm - 271-1347
R3 - 1k8(1.8k) Ohm - ***
R4 - 100 Ohm - 271-1311
R5 - 220 Ohm - 271-1313
D1 - 1N914 - *
P1(variable resistor) - 100k Ohm - 271-284
C1 - 1uF(Tantalum) - 272-1434
C2 - .1uF( - 272-1053
PB1 - Momentary(N.O.) - 275-1547
T1 - NPN - 276-1617
T2 - PNP - 276-1604


***Radio Shack does not have it. Wire a 1k, 330, and 470 ohm to make one *You can find all of these in the resistor 500 pack, Radio Shack number 271-312A

If you want this to work on the 360 wireless controller, you need to use a CMOS 555 timer(runs on 1.5 volts up to 16 volts, regular 555 takes a higher voltage).
Some things you need to know about the electronic components used in this tutorial, if you don’t know them already.

555 Timer - It has eight pins, and must be put in properly to work. It is a very useful component and is used in many electronic projects. It can be damaged by heat, but it would need to be alot of heat. For more info on it, visit this link


Resistors – They have no polarity so it doesnt matter if you put them in backwards or forward. They cant be damaged by heat.



Transistors – There are two kinds of them, NPN and PNP. We will be using NPN and PNP. They can be damaged by heat. There are three different case styles so that means that their pins may be different in each style of case.



Capacitors – Cant be damaged by heat. Electrolytic(one kind we are using) has a polarity so if they are put in backwards, they wont work properly. The positive and negative leads are usually marked somewhere on the body. I am going to use a Tantalum for one of the two capacitors needed. Tantalum capacitors also have a polatiry and the positive leg is marked on the body.



Diodes - Diodes are used for letting current flow only one way. They have also have a polarity so they wont work unless installed properly.



Variable Resistor(potentiometer, or trimmer) - It can adjust the resistance in a certain range, depending on the one that you use. It can go by three names, variable resistor, potentiometer, or trimmer. A trimmer is the style that I am going to use.



Note: The symbols that I have in the picture below are not 100% accurate to the schematic
---------Resistor-------Transistor----Transistor-----Capacitor-----------Diode----------VariableResistor

----------------------------PNP-------NPN---------Polarized

Getting Started:

For ease of understanding I will use an alphanumeric labeling system when referring to holes on the breadboard. Ignore the holes on the perimeter of the breadboard. Ignoring them, you should see two rows on the breadboard. Each row is three holes by ten holes. Lay the breadboard on your work surface with the trace side facing down and the rows going vertical, so you see one row on the left and one row on the right. Take a writing utensil and mark the top left dot. That dot will be A1. The dot to the right of that will be B1, to the right of that, C1, and so on. Each column will be a letter and each row will be a number, so the bottom right dot will be F10.




1. Solder the TLC555 timer into the breadboard with pin 1 of the chip in hole C4. Make sure that when you solder the timer onto the board you are soldering it with the chip, as well as all other components/wires, on the side of the board that doesn’t have the traces. It should be common sense, but I like to make sure I cover the simple mistakes, as those are the ones that really get people most the time.



2. Solder a wire connecting pins B4 and B3. I used a black wire, for ground.



3. Solder a wire connecting C3 and D3. Again, I used a black wire for ground.



4. Solder a wire connecting B5 and E6. I used an white wire in the picture.



5. Solder a wire connecting B7 and E4. I used a red wire, for power.



6. Solder a four inch long wire to E5. I used another white wire in the picture. I also have the NPN transistor on the board in the picture. You can leave that off for now, that was just a mistake I made while taking pictures. The transistor will get put on in the next step.



7. Solder the NPN transistor into F1, F2 and F3. NOTE: The transistor has to go in a certain way. If you look at the back of the package that it came in you should see a diagram showing which pins are the base, emitter and collector. The collector should be soldered into F1, the base into F2 and the emitter into F3. If you threw away the case, then hopefully you got the one listed in the “parts required” list above. If so, then the “round” side of the transistor should be facing the away from the center of the board, as shown in the picture.

8. Solder another four inch long wire to F6. I used a white wire in the picture.



9. Solder the 100pF capacitor into E3 and E7.



continued...

10. Solder the 220 ohm resistor into C2 and D2.



11. Solder the 1.8K ohm resistor into C1 and D1. Look closely and you’ll see that I’d accidentally soldered an 18k ohm instead of a 1.8k ohm. =P



12. Solder the 10K ohm resistor into F4 and F5.



13. Look at your 1uF capacitor. It should have a very small “plus” sign on it. That is the positive side. Solder the 1uF capacitor into A4 and A5, the positive side going into A4.



14. Solder a four inch long wire to B2. I used a green, for trigger.



15. Solder a four inch long wire to B1. Again, I used green, for trigger.



16. Solder a four inch long wire to A3. I used black, for ground.



17. Solder a four inch long wire to B6. I used green, for trigger.



18. Solder a seven inch long wire to A7. I used red, for power.


19. Flip the circuit board over and use a sharpie to draw a square around the holes of the board that you used. This will be your guide for when you are cutting the board down to size to fit inside the controller.



20. Your finished right trigger circuit board should look like this…



That completes the right trigger portion of the rapid fire mod’s circuit board.







Installing the right trigger circuit board


1. Solder the wire from B2 of the circuit board to one of the leads of the right pushbutton

2. Solder the wire from A6 of the circuit board to the other lead of the right pushbutton.

3. Solder the wire from E5 of the circuit board to one of the leads of the potentiometer.

4. Solder the wire from F6 of the circuit board to the remaining lead of the potentiometer. You should now have two wires soldered to the potentiometer, one on each side of it, not two wires on both sides. Remember, I instructed you to cut one of the two leads that are on one side of the potentiometer in Step 7 of Installing the pushbuttons and potentiometer. Your project should now loook something like this:


5. Solder the wire from A7 to the Power point of the controller’s circuit board.


6. Solder the wire from B3 to the Ground point of the right trigger of the controller’s circuit board. In my picture it is the point with the black wire soldered to it on the right hand side of the controller.


7. Solder the wire from B1 to the Trigger point of the right trigger of the controller’s circuit board. In the picture in step 6 above, it is the point with the green wire soldered to it on the right side of the controller’s circuit board, just below the black one mentioned in step 5. NOTE: If you are only doing the right trigger portion of this mod, you may now put your controller back together. If all went well, you now have a rapid fire button for your right trigger. Adjust the potentiometer as necessary while testing in game to find the setting you desire.



Here is a schematic:


Thanks to phlsphr420 from xbox-scene.com

[nathanlawliet]

LOL, I'd love to have something like that. But last time we opened a controller, I spray painted it.

Bad idea... But this could be doable if I took the time...

[MasterSprtn117]

What games would this help on?

[NikeRooney]

halo 3, gears of war, call of duty 4

[MasterSprtn117]

I've played those three games, and I don't really see a use for it, if you can aim well enough. Maybe COD4, on those semi auto guns..

[NikeRooney]

yea i guess so
never tried the mod though

[29kratos]

that's neat. i don't think i would tear appart a controller to do it though.

[Tayl0r]

wow, thats WAY to many steps and pieces that would cause too much trouble

[SilentWalrus]

I saw this controller on eBay for $90.
FAIL.

[Trogdor]

dude this would be awesome, if I had a 360 I would totally do it, but I am going to stick to making musical instruments for the time being

[SilentWalrus]

Originally Posted by Trogdor616

dude this would be awesome, if I had a 360 I would totally do it, but I am going to stick to making musical instruments for the time being

GET A JOB HIPPIE

[Deiparous]

why not just get a crystal, it'd be a lot easier... of course then you'd need to know what frequency ahead of time, but meh.

[Robb4248]

Geeze... I had no idea this post was here. I was about to head over to radio shack to pick everything up ($27.92 before taxes). Here's my part list:

Breadboard
271-3121 (provides some parts to spare too!)
275-1547
276-1604
276-1620
276-1718
272-1434
272-1053
271-284

[nathanlawliet]

Yes but anyone who does this is more of a loser than me. I mean, modding a controller to get an edge over people in games is just sad.

[Robb4248]

Just to let people know, this will not work with the newer CG versions of the board, and

Edit: Here are the instructions, updated, which I have compiled into a PDF:

http://www.mediafire.com/?xjmpt1tytcq

There are corrections to the original post:

7. Solder the NPN transistor into F1, F2 and F3. NOTE: The transistor has to go in a certain way. If you look at the back of the package that it came in you should see a diagram showing which pins are the base, emitter and collector. The collector should be soldered into F1, the base into F2 and the emitter into F3. If you threw away the case, then hopefully you got the one listed in the “parts required” list above. If so, then the “round” side of the transistor should be facing the away from the center of the board, as shown in the picture.

Should read as:

7. Solder the NPN transistor into F1, F2 and F3. NOTE: The transistor has to go in a certain way. If you look at the back of the package that it came in you should see a diagram showing which pins are the base, emitter and collector. The collector should be soldered into F1, the base into F2 and the emitter into F3. If you threw away the case, then hopefully you got the one listed in the “parts required” list above. If so, then the “round” side of the transistor should be facing the center of the board. The picture is wrong, unfortunately. It still worked for me for some reason, being soldered wrong, but if you want to do it right, follow these written instructions instead.

13. Look at your 1uF capacitor. It should have a very small “plus” sign on it. That is the positive side. Solder the 1uF capacitor into A4 and A5, the positive side going into A4.

Should read as:

13. Look at your 1uF capacitor. It should have a very small “plus” sign on it. That is the positive side. Solder the 1uF capacitor into A4 and A5, the positive side going into A5.

5. Solder the other diode into A6 and A7. The negative side of the diode should be soldered into C7.

Should read as:


5. Solder the other diode into A6 and A7. The negative side of the diode should be soldered into A7

2. Solder the wire from A6 of the circuit board to the other lead of the right pushbutton.

Should read as:

2. Solder the wire from B6 of the circuit board to the other lead of the right pushbutton.

8. Solder the wire from B6 to one of the leads of the left pushbutton. In the picture below you can see the wire coming across from the right hand side of the controller to the pushbutton shown. That is the wire I am referring to for this step. NOTE: If you are only doing the right trigger portion of this mod, you may skip this step.

Should read as:

8. Solder the wire from A6 to one of the leads of the left pushbutton. In the picture below you can see the wire coming across from the right hand side of the controller to the pushbutton shown. That is the wire I am referring to for this step. NOTE: If you are only doing the right trigger portion of this mod, you may skip this step.

[pj9000]

... i think i'll keep my remote the way it is now.... CONFUSED!

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